It happened again. Dinner at Allegria left me longing for an Italian grandmother of my very own. Specifically, a spirited Nonna with a passion for cooking who lives nearby. And if she owned a Tuscan villa, all the better. Back to reality, I’ll settle for the next best thing, which is to return as often as possible to feast on the authentic and simply delicious creations that stir those longings.

  Located in a converted private home, the small restaurant’s hominess comes naturally. Enticing aromas greeted us, heightening our anticipation and making us happy to know that Chef Salvatore D’Alprano was in the kitchen stirring the risotto and stuffing the cannelloni. He grew up in a small town in Italy, where food is what it’s all about, and cooks with his heart.

  His wife and co-owner Giuseppa D’Alprano extended her usual warm greeting as she led us to our table in front of the fieldstone fireplace in one of the two dining rooms. It was fun to learn our server was their daughter, named Assunta after her grandmother and eager to please, a family trait. We automatically went into slow-down mode, ready to savor it all.

  Walls painted in sunny colors reminiscent of southern Italy set the stage for ever-expanding displays of collectibles that make the “Viva Italia” connection. Terra-cotta plaques celebrating the sun (think CBS Sunday Morning icons) grace the walls and a wide array of colorful rooster figures, a favorite of Chef Salvatore, look down from their perches here and there.

  My companion, a first-time visitor, took in the scene and gave it a thumbs-up as “true country Italian.” Yes, but with a fine-dining side, particularly the table settings with their crisp white cloths, fresh flowers and attractive dinnerware with a pretty mosaic pattern that suggests “old country.”

Buon Appetito

  The special soup, Pumpkin Purée ($9), smooth, colorful and rich with the fruit’s essence, was topped with two parmesan crostinis, a perfect texture/flavor pairing. Assunta told us the soup was made with Cinderella-style pumpkins that are “Italian-style,” a fun culinary fact to add to the Italian abundance we were enjoying.

  On-the-menu soups include pasta e fagioli, that comforting brew of vegetables, cannellini beans and pasta, and stracciatella alla Romana, Italy’s version of egg drop soup with spinach and small meatballs.

  A gentle touch of garlic brightened the satisfying Escarola Gamberetti ($12.50) the escarole leaves sautéed in primo olive oil to a near-melting texture with sautéed shrimp and canellini beans on top. On the bottom was a crostini, just like Nonna would make it.

  Other appetizer options include panzanella Toscana, toasted Italian bread topped with tomatoes, roasted peppers, olives and mozzarella; antipasto with prosciutto added to the standard meat-and-cheese mix; mussels and clams steamed in white wine; fried calamari with a spicy dipping sauce; and grilled eggplant with goat cheese and balsamic reduction.

  Freshly squeezed lemon juice brightened the lively dressing that made Salad Limoncello ($10.95) an ideal appetizer salad with its crisp greens, shavings of tangy/nutty asiago cheese and slices of grilled portobello mushroom. Other salad choices include mozzarella caprese with tomatoes and peppers, and misto tricolore, a toss of spring-mix greens with tomatoes and red onions.

Risotto Rocks

  Chef Salvatore’s perfect risotto reminded us of just how many mediocre interpretations are out there. The variety of fresh mushrooms and dried porcini in Risotto al Porcini ($20.95) delighted with their earthy flavors that had been fully developed during the long process of making the classic arborio rice dish. It was perfectly creamy too, of course, with aged parmesan pleasantly assertive flavor. My vegetarian companion never stopped smiling as she worked her way through every bite of pure goodness.

  Speidini di Gamberoni ($26.95), or “skewered prawns,” featured plump scallops and shrimp simply prepared, their intrinsic flavors allowed to shine. Marinated in a lemon-lime vinaigrette and then grilled, the shellfish sat on a bed of fresh field greens dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette and accompanied by another perfect risotto, this one simply seasoned with parmesan.

  We enjoyed a hearty 2008 zinfandel from Cline Vineyards in California, my friend’s BYO choice. A beautiful dark red color and a bit spicy, it was especially good with the risotto.

  Other entrées included four veal or vitello specialities: rollati or rolled with spinach, pine nuts, mozzarella and raisins in a Madeira sauce; saltimbocca Romana, a personal favorite featuring veal medallions and prosciutto cooked with dry white wine; cotoletta Milanese, lightly breaded and pan fried; and a 14-ounce grilled chop garnished with vegetables and potatoes.

  Also on the menu, red snapper Livornese with capers, black olives, white wine and a light tomato sauce; chicken breast rolled with peppers, goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; sautéed chicken breast topped with spinach and mascarpone; and pork loin cacciatore with sweet peppers and wild mushrooms in a spicy red chianti sauce.

Dolci So Dear

  Assunta’s glowing description of Toasted Almond Cake ($9), a house special baked by her mother, left me with no option. I had to try it, especially when she described how she loved cleaning up the bits of goodness left in the pan. A call to Giuseppa yielded some information, even though she insists the recipe is a secret and that regular customers expect it, and are disappointed if it’s not available. She says it includes “pastry cream, mascarpone, amaretto liqueur, a bit of vanilla . . . or sometimes, rum . . . or maybe almond extract.” Any would do. The small layered square of creamy delight topped with really crunchy chopped almonds lived up to its promise.

  So did the delectable Fruit Tart ($9), just-out-of-the-oven warm, its rich pastry filled with lightly sweetened blueberries and raspberries. A simple sprinkling of powdered sugar garnished each dessert. No need for anything more when the main attraction is this good. Other sweet options include superb tiramisu, petite cannolis dipped in dark chocolate, home-made cheesecake and superb gelato.

The Amore Factor

  Whether or not you believe that “food is love,” a good place to do research is Allegria. And don’t miss the risotto. -CL-

Owners: Salvatore and Giuseppa D'Alprano

Lunch: Tuesday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 5 to 9:30 p.m.
BYOB