The 2010 dining out scene in County Lines country promises more flavor, more flexibility, prices kept under control and culinary experiences like theme dinners, tasting opportunities and cooking classes.
Economic challenges during 2009 spurred restaurant owners to hone more than their chefs’ knives when planning for the New Year. They’ve researched, analyzed and stretched their creative tendencies, focusing on what will make you happy so their businesses prosper.
What’s Ahead
Comfort food will be hotter than ever, with braised entrées leading the way. It’s easy to love a cooking technique that produces succulent dinner from modestly priced meat. Think savory, richly flavored, fall-off-the-bone tender short ribs, briskets, osso bucco and more.
Does the idea of a Sunday supper appeal? You’ve got it. More prix fixe offerings? They’re widespread. (For folks who wonder, it’s “pree feeks.”) Look for more Chef’s Tables, varied tasting menus, increased local/seasonal initiatives as well as exotic fish from all over the world.
Prime beef lovers can relax — these are menu additions, not replacements. Toast your favorite restaurants for programs that show their commitment to “green” and community projects. Social networkers can expect more up-to-the-minute “what’s cooking” news from their favorite restaurants, too, this year.
Options Abound
In Montchanin, Delaware, Krazy Kats’ prix fixe feature of Slow-Braised Veal Osso Bucco covers two of the leading 2010 trends. “I really like braised stuff,” says Executive Chef Donny Merrill. He’s also increasing small plate options that invite guests to “set themselves up with their own tasting menu.”
Gilmore’s, the Best Restaurant for the second consecutive year in County Lines’ annual “Best of the Best” issue, will keep diners happy with more theme dinners, more four-course Bistro dinners for $35 and more flexible seating times, specifically every half hour between 5:30 and 8:30. The always-sold-out Foie Gras/Truffle dinners will continue, as will other theme dinners like the Julie & Julia winner. All good news for fans of this exemplary French restaurant.
For the first time in its long history, Duling-Kurtz in Exton will offer a prix fixe menu, says owner Gertie Person. The plan calls for a weekly menu insert offering the special selections. “Probably four appetizers that are different from what’s on the regular menu, four entrées — like organic chicken, fish of the day, BBQ ribs — and four desserts . . . in the $39-$40 range. And a sampler of wines, maybe.” The inn’s high quality standards will prevail, Person says. Meanwhile Executive Chef Joshua Taggart joins the braising brigade, touting a new Kurbota Pork Shank and Root Vegetable creation rich with earthy flavors.
At Harry’s Savoy Grill in North Wilmington and Harry’s Seafood Grill on Wilmington’s Riverfront, look for two-course prix fixe menus — appetizer and entrée for $25. These are paired with “glasses of wine for $6-$8 that we’re proud of,” says owner Xavier Teixido. And yes, they offer braised short ribs — for $20. But knowing that customers want choices, Harry’s keeps high-end steaks and seafood on its menu.
At the elegant Green Room, the Hotel Du Pont’s renowned dining room, guests will continue to enjoy prix fixe menus — three-course dinners of French-inspired cuisine at $40, plus wine dinners and the ever-popular Sunday brunch. The latter’s format now combines a buffet for appetizer and dessert courses, while entrées are ordered from a menu. Some of the Green Room’s higher-end bottles of wine will be made available on a by-the-glass basis.
More is More
The Blue Pear Bistro, in West Chester’s Dilworthtown Inn complex, has hopped on the braising bandwagon. Co-owner Jim Barnes touts dinners like Beef Brisket Bordelaise for all the reasons stated earlier. Typically, the menu will still include primary cuts like premium racks of lamb and prime beef. Look for more moderately priced wines — from South Africa, Chile, Romania and Hungary. New flavorful cuisines being explored include Malaysian and Indian. Small plate portions, usually under $10, will continue for those who wish to explore and expand their culinary experiences.
The crew at 333 Belrose in Radnor, led by owner/chef Carlo deMarco (also of Firecreek Restaurant & Bar in Downingtown), are rolling out Sunday Suppers. Served from 5 to 8 p.m., the dinners will be served family-style, designed to keep every one happy, from picky eaters to hungry teens. What could be homier than a roasted chicken in the middle of the table for all to enjoy? Pass the mashed please. The “singular menu,” as deMarco calls it, will be changed monthly. Not to worry if you’re a fan of 333’s imaginative American/fusion fare that has paved the way to its 10th anniversary. The Sunday Suppers will supplement, not replace, the established menu.
Dinners that feature a local vendor, farm or product will continue at Majolica in Phoenixville, a haven for foodies who appreciate the sophisticated food and friendly ambiance. Chef/owner Andrew Deery will build on his success with these and with monthly cooking classes, tastings included, that always sell out. When Jack’s Farm, an organic operation in Pottstown, was featured, the multi-course dinner included a brief presentation by Jack’s owner. It was a winning farm-to-table reality show to be repeated in 2010.
At The Orchard in Kennett Square, chef/owner Gary Trevisani focuses on little touches that are cost-effective. A Francophile — he’s visited France at least 40 times — he likes to give his guests little surprises, “things they don’t expect.” He and his kitchen staff have fun coming up with cutting-edge amuses bouches and unconventional sorbets — “funky beet,” for one — to serve between courses. And he insists on impeccable service, including the way BYO wines are served. Trevisani’s on board with braising, planning a venison osso bucco for 2010. “My goal is to come up with something that’s fairly familiar and tweaking it for our guests.” It’s a good sign when a chef has fun doing his job.
Super Chef’s Tables
It’s a festival of food every day at the Northbrook Marketplace in West Chester, and the Chef’s Table crowns the whole operation. Make a resolution to gather friends for a feast at its huge communal table in the hayloft.
If you want a seat at the area’s hottest Chef’s Table, Talula’s in Kennett Square, you’re looking at 2011, because reservations are taken one year ahead. So plan for an outstanding dinner next year. You’ll be happy you did. -CL-