Bring a hearty appetite to this distinctive inn, where visitors have been welcomed for more than 200 years. It prides itself on large portions, and boy does it deliver, with expert preparation to match. If you’re a discriminating sort who dines with gusto or someone planning a big-deal dinner, put Seven Stars on your short list.

  A few days after our feast in Phoenixville, I savored the Julie & Julia film celebrating culinary superstar Julia Child. When Meryl Streep’s Julia expressed her enthusiastic love of butter — “Is there anything better?” she chirps — the superb hollandaise sauce I enjoyed here came to mind, as did dishes like lobster Thermidor and other classics. I have no doubt Child would be a fan of Seven Stars.

History Plus

  From homestead to publick house to fox hunters retreat to meeting place for American Revolution militia, the site has always been a hub of activity. Some call it the original Chester County steakhouse, but that’s short-changing its attraction.

  This year, Seven Stars celebrates the 200th anniversary of its name, origin unknown. Some have suggested it refers to the Big Dipper’s seven stars or the seven years of America’s war for independence.

  Hand-hewn beams accentuate the low ceilings where Tiffany chandeliers and brass hurricane lanterns hang, providing soft mood lighting for the various dining areas. They spread out over three levels with tables to accommodate 380 people. The quirky layout adds to its charms, accented with eclectic accent pieces, like a sturdy sideboard displaying plates and other tableware, some with delicate designs. The mounted deerhead in the bar caught our attention, as did a pretty Pennsylvania Dutch quilt. Elegant swag draperies and crisp white linens lend a fine-dining ambiance.

  Chef Mike Walters, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, touts the restaurant’s friendliness. His favorite time of year is Christmas when “we completely decorate the restaurant . . . and it’s a beautiful Colonial setting.” It attracts non-stop holiday entertaining and many parties that keep the staff hopping and the chef happy.

Bon Appetit!

  It was a packed house on the Saturday night we visited, and the well-trained staff was ready. Having told us about the large portions, our server then made us chuckle when she seemed to take personal delight in our “Wow!” reaction whenever she placed a well-endowed dish before us. Meanwhile the busboy would show up at just the right time to whisk off the contents of another to-go package. He had the routine down pat.

  Seared Ahi Tuna ($9.95), an appetizer that was close to entrée size, hit the mark with its sushi grade quality and freshness, well charred on the outside, rare inside. I couldn’t identify the Asian nuances that made the tomato salsa/vinaigrette sing, but it was pure culinary harmony. More “Wow!” reaction greeted the Jumbo Mushrooms Stuffed with Lump Crabmeat ($10.95). The four huge caps heaped with a delectable crab mixture, coated with rich hollandaise, all nestled in a chafing dish, were a prime example of this regionally popular appetizer. A zingy raspberry vinaigrette, dried cranberries and feta made the field greens salad included with dinner a tasty toss.

  Other first-course options: jumbo shrimp cocktail, scallops Dijon, marinated herring and Alaskan King crab legs, split and ready to eat. Soup choices include New England clam chowder, Alaskan cream crab bisque and snapper soup. Two specials at our visit: crab cocktail and marinated lollipop lamb chops.

Enter the Entrées

  There were so many individual lumps of sweet crab carefully placed on top of the two large cutlets in Veal à la Oscar ($28.95), I just had to count them, coming up with about 20. Big wow! Chef Walters’ own spin on this classic: sautéing the veal in lemon butter, roasting the asparagus spears and topping with that delectable hollandaise. From the list of side-dish options: spinach, gently sautéed in olive oil with a bit of garlic, and pickled beets.

  Chilean Sea Bass ($33.95), as large and plump a piece as I’ve ever seen in a restaurant, was baked just enough to keep it moist, its crusty lemon-pepper topping adding texture and a little pizzazz. For side dishes: steamed broccoli, pristinely al dente with a light butter seasoning, and mildly kicky zucchini a la marina.

  The slightly citrusy, full-bodied bottle of Kiara chardonnay we brought (2006, from California’s Sylvester Vineyards) paired well with our dinner choices. Corkage fee was $10, because it was a weekend (it’s waived weeknights). You’re welcome to bring your own wine, but know Seven Stars has an excellent wine cellar, built in an old tunnel discovered during some recent reconstruction, and offers a comprehensive selection organized by style rather than by varietal or country of origin to better accommodate trying new wines. Prices are reasonable with most bottles under $50.

  We couldn’t help but marvel at a nearby table’s order of huge stuffed lobster tails piled high with crabmeat plus sautéed shrimp. They were spectacular, prompting lots of picture taking. Other seafood specials included poached salmon, flounder stuffed with crab imperial, shrimp combination platter, broiled scallops, seared tuna and Alaskan king crab legs.

  The house specialty is a slow-roasted Western prime rib, a wow-inspiring 32 to 40 ounces. Also available from the meat section: 18 to 20 ounce king’s cut of filet mignon, filet brochette, veal parmigiana, roast duck and grilled chicken breast.

  The “Young Adult Menu” (16 and under) offers smaller portions of the regular menu.

Killer Desserts

  The daunting but also delectable Peach Melba ($6.75) honored the classic recipe with its juicy summer peaches, perfectly poached, just-sweet-enough raspberry sauce and rich vanilla ice cream. Plus whipped cream on top, of course. Another classic, Carrot Cake ($6), was more of everything that makes this favorite so good: dark,  fruity cake iced with tangy cream cheese frosting.

  We could only imagine the molten chocolate lava cake, peanut butter cup chocolate cake, chocolate toffee mousse, cappuccino crème brûlée and fried banana caramel cheesecake. Whew!

Warming Body & Soul

  When cool weather whets your appetite, Seven Stars’ appeal rises. Consider a hearty meal in the lower level, where the big stone fireplace adds another pleasant dimension to dinner. -CL-

Proprietor: Frank Cacciutti
Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 4:30 to 9; Sunday 3 to 7
Private parties for up to 50