Not for nothing is Kennett Square called “The Mushroom Capital of the World.” It supplies over 60% of the nation’s mushrooms, and it’s got a legion of fans—more like ambassadors—who are practically poetic on the subject of fungi.

  Since fall 2011, Chef Brett Hulbert has been showcasing Kennett Square’s pride at Portabello’s, a welcoming 65-seat BYOB on West State Street. With access to nearby mushroom suppliers like Lafferty, To-Jo and Phillips Farms, Hulbert says he could happily include mushrooms in half of his menu’s dishes.

  Portabello mushroom fries and an exotic mushroom crepe rank among the restaurant’s popular small plates, while State Street Mushroom Soup, flavored with Madeira wine and toasted shallots, stars in the soup category. And the rustic egg noodles with portabellos, garlic, caramelized shallots and parsley butter remind anyone lucky enough to sample a forkful that simple food made with quality ingredients has no rivals. 
  A commitment to quality—Hulbert strives to offer “simple foods prepared perfectly”—means constant improvisation. He tweaks the menu every two weeks considering what’s in season, and he incorporates the best of many cuisines—Spanish, French, Italian and Asian—into this ever-evolving menu. Some dishes, like the portabello fries and lobster ravioli, however, have earned a permanent place on his globally-inspired menu.

  What’s more: Hulbert’s under strict orders from Vice President Joe Biden regarding his chicken parmesan. Biden declared Portabello’s chicken parm the best in the U.S. and upon leaving, the VP told Hulbert, “Don’t change your sauce! I’ll be back.”

  Just across the street from Portabello’s sits The Mushroom Cap where owner Kathi Lafferty offers all manner of things mushroom. An organizer of the Mushroom Festival, which has been held every September for the past 27 years, Lafferty comes by her enthusiasm for mushrooms honestly:  her family operates nearby Lafferty Farms.

  The Mushroom Cap carries many varieties of fresh mushrooms in its cooler including whites, shiitakes, portabellos, oyster and maitakes. On the shelves, visitors find mushroom-themed tea towels, t-shirts (including the punny “Shitake Happens in Kennett Square”) and food items. Lafferty herself invented the popular Snack N’ Shrooms, a mushroom chip that’s dried not fried and comes in a variety of flavors.

  The Mushroom Cap also houses a small museum in its back room. Visitors can watch a short video about Chester County’s mushroom industry (while seated on mushroom-shaped stools, of course!), and peek into a miniature model of a mushroom production facility. And if Louise D’Amico, whose family business is To-Jo Mushrooms, happens to be working at the shop that day, she’ll gladly reel off her recipe for an easy, satisfying portabello salad.

  Although we Brandy–winers might take the humble mushroom for granted, a foray into Kennett Square reminds us of the local treasure in our own backyards.

Roasted Mushroom and Blue Cheese Hummus
At Portabello’s in Kennett Square, Chef Brett Hulbert likes to serve this flavorful spread with fresh vegetables and crostini.

2 lbs. button mushrooms
½ C. extra virgin olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper to taste
20-30 garlic cloves, sliced
1, 15.5-oz. can garbanzo beans, rinsed
1½ lbs. blue cheese, crumbled
1 bunch scallions, chopped
3 Tb. fresh thyme, chopped
2 Tb. fresh tarragon, chopped

  Preheat oven to 500°. Coat mushrooms with half of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are reduced in size by about a third, approximately 25 minutes. Allow to cool.

  Over high heat sauté garlic in remaining olive oil until edges just start to brown. Allow to cool.

  In a food processor, purée all ingredients.

  Makes approximately 10-12 servings.

KSQ Bread Salad
KSQ stands for Kennett Square, of course. Chef Brett Hulbert suggests serving this salad over a bed of your favorite lettuces.

2 lbs. roasted mushrooms
¼ C. extra virgin olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper to taste
10 cloves garlic, sliced
3 lbs. heirloom tomatoes, cut into large dice
1 medium sweet onion, sliced
¼ C. red wine vinegar
½ C. fresh local basil, chopped
1 Tb. dried oregano
1 tsp. sugar
1½ C. croutons

  Preheat oven to 500°. Coat mushrooms with half of the olive oil and season salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are reduced in size by about a third, approximately 25 minutes. Allow to cool.

  Over high heat, sauté garlic in remaining olive oil until edges just start to brown. Allow to cool.

  In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients, except croutons, and season with salt and pepper. Let stand 15 minutes. Add mushrooms and garlic. Twenty minutes before serving, add croutons and toss.

  Makes approximately 8-10 servings.

Steak and Portabello Mushroom Kabobs
Chef Brett Hulbert calls on Asian ingredients to add punch to this dish. Five spice powder combines peppercorns, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and fennel seeds, and it tastes of all five flavors: sweet, sour, bitter, pungent and salty. Kimchee, a spicy condiment popular in Korean cooking, is made from fermented cabbage, garlic, vinegar and chile peppers.

For the kabobs:
½ C. soy sauce
¼ C. dark brown sugar
1 large onion, puréed
3 Tb. fresh ginger, puréed
2 Tb. sesame oil
1 tsp. five spice powder
4 lbs. sirloin steak, cut into 1¼” cubes
8-10 Portabello mushrooms, cut into 1¼” cubes

Skewers:

   In a large bowl, combine soy, brown sugar, onion, ginger, sesame oil and spice powder. Add sirloin and marinate for 1½ -2 hours at room temperature.

  Skewer beef and mushrooms. Grill kabobs until middle of sirloin reaches 125°. Remove from heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes. Serve with slaw.

  Makes approximately 8 servings.

The Slaw:
1 C. kimchee, chopped
2 C. Napa cabbage, shredded
1 Bermuda onion, sliced
Juice of 2 limes

  Toss all slaw ingredients together and let stand for at least 1 hour.

Beef Stroganoff
My sister makes this comforting dish whenever the temperature falls below 50. She serves it atop wide egg noodles. Add a green salad, and you’ve got dinner.

1 Tb. olive oil
1 lb. thinly sliced steak (beef stir fry pieces or cook’s choice)
1 medium onion, chopped
1 lb. mushrooms, sliced
1, 10.5-oz. can cream of chicken soup
Salt, pepper and garlic salt to taste
2 Tb. flour
½ C. sour cream
1 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet for darker color, optional

  In a large skillet coated with the olive oil, brown beef and onion together. Drain off fat. Add mushrooms, soup and seasonings to taste. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes.

  Add flour and sour cream to beef mixture. Increase heat and stir until mixture bubbles. Add Kitchen Bouquet, stir once more and then shut off heat. Allow to sit for 5 minutes before serving.

  Makes 4-6 servings.

Funghi Ripieni (Italian Stuffed Mushrooms)
I adapted this recipe from Jane Grigson’s The Mushroom Feast. Published in 1975, this book is part field guide, part history, and part recipe collection. For mushroom lovers, it’s simply a treasure. Note: feel free to increase or decrease the amount of anchovies based on your taste.

15 large white mushrooms
1 Tb. olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large shallot, diced
1, 4-oz. tin of anchovies packed in olive oil, drained and oil reserved
½ C. chopped Italian parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
2 slices Ciabatta or other Italian bread, moistened with water and torn into dime-sized
pieces
1 egg, beaten
Grated parmesan cheese, optional
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges

  Preheat oven to 400°. Remove stems from mushrooms. Chop stems along with three of the mushrooms. You will have 12 mushroom caps and 1-2 C. chopped mushrooms. Set aside.

  In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Do not allow garlic to burn. Add shallots and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Increase heat and add chopped mushrooms. Cook for 5 minutes. While mushrooms cook, chop anchovies. Stir in anchovies and parsley and cook for 3-5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add salt and pepper to taste.

  In a large bowl, stir together mushroom mixture, bread and egg.

  Coat the bottom of an ovenproof dish with a teaspoon or two of the reserved oil from anchovies. Arrange mushroom caps close together and spoon mixture into them. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.

  Makes 4 appetizer servings.

Exotic Mushroom Pizza
Recipe courtesy of The Official Cookbook of the Mushroom Festival, an annual event in Kennett Square.

1, 12-inch pre-baked pizza crust
3 Tb. olive oil, plus extra for brushing on crust
1 lb. assorted exotic mushrooms, sliced or chopped (If using shiitakes, remove stem.)
4-5 garlic cloves, minced
3 shallots or mild onion, thinly sliced or minced
¼ C. dry red wine, optional
1 oz. gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
8 oz. fontina cheese, grated or thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

  Put pizza stone or pan in oven and heat to 425°. While stone is heating, brush a little olive oil evenly over pizza crust. Bake 5-7 minutes or until oil bubbles. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. (If using a thin crust, you can eliminate this pre-baking step.)

  Heat sauté or frying pan on high heat. Add 3 Tb. olive oil, garlic and shallots. Quickly sauté for 30 seconds. Do not allow mixture to burn. Add mushrooms to hot pan and sauté until most mushroom juices have evaporated, about 3-5 minutes. Add wine and continue to sauté until wine completely evaporates and mushrooms have turned a darker shade of brown, about 2-3 minutes. Remove mixture from heat.

  Spread gorgonzola cheese evenly over warm crust so that it melts slightly. Spread mushroom mixture evenly over the crust. Add the fontina cheese, distributing it as evenly as possible. Season with salt and pepper.

  Place on hot stone in oven and bake 12-15 minutes or until cheese is lightly browned and bubbly. Cool and cut into small rectangles for hors d’oeuvres or into pie-shaped pieces for a main course. Serve warm or at room temperature.

  Makes 12 appetizer or 4 main course servings.

Flaky Sherry Mushroom Turnovers
Recipe courtesy of The Official Cookbook of the Mushroom Festival.

2 Tb. butter
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 lb. fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, shredded
1 tsp. marjoram
2 tsp. cornstarch
¾ C. chicken broth
2 Tb. sherry
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pkg. (6) Pepperidge Farm frozen pastry shells, thawed per directions on box
Shredded cheese (cook’s choice), opt.
Butter or egg wash, optional

  Preheat oven to 400°. Melt butter in a frying pan. Add garlic and onion and cook until soft and golden. Add sliced mushrooms, carrot and marjoram. Cook until liquid has evaporated.

  In a bowl, combine cornstarch, chicken broth and sherry. Add to mushroom mixture. Cook, stirring constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Let this mixture cool completely.

  On a floured board, roll each pastry shell into a 7 ½” circle. Place ½ C. of the mushroom filling on half of each pastry circle. If desired, add a tablespoon or two of cheese. Lightly moisten the edges of the pastry with water and fold pastry over the filling to enclose. Press the edges together with a fork. Prick the tops with a fork and arrange turnovers on a baking sheet. (If you like, cover and refrigerate until the next day.) If desired, brush the tops with melted butter or an egg wash (a beaten egg mixed with a little water).

  Bake uncovered for 30-35 minutes or until brown and puffy. Serve hot or at room temperature.

  Makes 6 servings.

Brandywine Mushroom Terrine
This recipe calls for giving the terrine a water bath, providing a gentler way to cook while providing the necessary moisture. Here’s how to make one. Place your filled baking dish into a large, deep roasting pan and then place both in the oven. Using a large measuring cup with a spout or even a watering can (free of old leaves, of course), add enough hot water so that it reaches halfway up the pan. Recipe courtesy of The Official Cookbook of the Mushroom Festival.

3 oz. butter
1 large onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb. portabello mushrooms, chopped finely
1 lb. white mushrooms, chopped coarsely
3 C. shredded fresh spinach
3 Tb. sherry
1½ C. cream cheese, room temperature
3 eggs, beaten
1½ C. chopped macadamia nuts
¼ C. fresh chopped parsley
1 Tb. fresh chopped rosemary
Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
1 Tb. of your favorite pesto added to ½ C. mayonnaise

  Preheat oven to 350°. Sauté onion in butter until soft. Add garlic, mushrooms, spinach and sherry. Cook until dry. Set aside to cool.

  In a mixer, beat cream cheese until light. Add eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Mix in mushroom/spinach mixture. Fold in nuts and seasonings. Pour into greased Pyrex bread loaf pan. Top with aluminum foil. Bake in a water bath for 2 hours.

  Cool in refrigerator overnight. Unmold, slice and serve on crackers or oatcakes with a dollop of pesto mayonnaise.

  Makes 1 loaf-sized terrine.

Quick Mushroom Salad
Quantities don’t matter much in this quick and easy recipe. Just let your taste be your guide. Recipe from Louise D’Amico of To-Jo Farms and The Mushroom Cap.

Portabello mushroom cap
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil
Lettuce
Bruschetta for topping
Diced Mozzarella or Feta cheese
Balsamic vinegar

  Preheat oven to 350°. Put a portabello cap, gill side up on a rimmed cookie sheet. Season with salt, pepper and a little olive oil. Roast for 5-10 minutes. Drain mushroom liquid. Place portabello on a bed of lettuce. Spoon bruschetta topping and diced mozzarella or feta cheese onto mushroom. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar. -CL-

To contact Laura, please e-mail her at LauraBrennan@ValleyDel.com.

What’s in a Mushroom Name?

The word “mushroom” comes from the French word “mousseron” meaning moss, the place where mushrooms grow.  Of the 38,000 known species, many possess delightfully whimsical names.  For the meanings behind the monikers, read on.

Hen of the Woods resembles a hen with ruffled feathers.  Also known as “maitake” (Japanese for “dancing mushroom”), this mushroom can weigh up to 20 pounds.  No wonder the mushroom hunter dances when he finds one!

Porcini means “piglets” in Italian, so called because pigs fight for them.  Usually associated with Italy, this “king of mushrooms” actually grows in many parts of Europe, China and North America.

Shiitake stands for “shii mushroom” in Japanese. “Shii” refers to the type of tree whose dead logs provide fertile real estate for this exotic species.

Portabellos (sometimes spelled Portobello or Portabella) might be named after London’s Portobello Road, the home of many upscale shops and antique stores.  Or the name might refer to the television show “Portobello.”  Northern Italians call this variety “cappellone” which means “big hat.”

Creminis, aka baby bellas, derive their name from the Italian word for cream, a nod to their color.  When a cremini grows to 4-6” in diameter, it’s labeled a portabello.

Oyster mushrooms possess caps and a mild taste evocative of oysters. 

Mushroom Grab Bag

Mushroom history and lore abound in Kennett Square.  Below are some interesting tidbits I picked up when I visited.

William Swayne, a Kennett Square florist, is often referred to as the father of the U.S. mushroom growing industry.  In the late 1800s, Swayne decided to put the space under his carnation beds to good use.  He imported mushroom spawn from England and started Kennett Square on the road to becoming the Mushroom Capital of the World.

Clean mushrooms with a brush or a slightly damp towel to loosen the dirt.  If you must wash, rinse don’t soak, and dry them immediately.

Ancient Egyptians believed that mushrooms brought immortality to anyone who ate them.  By law, only pharaohs could partake of the magic food.

Other ancient cultures grew mushrooms for warriors, claiming that the fungi gave these men superhuman strength.

Mushrooms are more nutritious than you may thing.  They’re low in fat, sodium and calories, yet high in potassium and fiber.